Okehampton.

Set among the moors that once challenged travellers crossing to Cornwall, Okehampton keeps a working-town feel rather than a polished one, with granite terraces and a castle ruin overlooking the valley below. Mornings tend to start slow here, best spent over a pot of tea at one of the town's cafes before heading out toward Dartmoor's open ground. Those staying longer will find a modest but well-placed set of hotels for a base between hikes.